What Is the Difference Between Chemical and Mineral Sunscreen? - Newsletter #4
“Don't. ever. buy this. The white cast is insane.” - random quote from a mineral sunscreen buyer.
With summer just around the corner, this is the time of year I get asked about what type of sunscreen to use. Many friends, family and patients I speak to on a regular basis mentioned they were unhappy with their sunscreen choices last year and are not keen to spend money again on mediocre sunscreen products. The biggest issue was the white cast from mineral sunscreens. At the same time, I got some pretty hilarious pictures!
Most of the pictures I received were like this sunscreen review I found on Sephora:
Another pain point is price tags! The price of some sunscreens can get up there, especially if you are looking for a nice product to apply to your face. The most expensive sunscreen I’ve seen so far is $310 for 50 mL, which is insane (the brand is La Prairie, but still nuts!).
So, buying a product you don’t like after spending a lot of money is frustrating. Most people I know are willing to spend a reasonable amount on the right product as long as it is the RIGHT product.
Finding the right sunscreen is tricky because there are so many to choose from; the branding and marketing make it confusing, and some leave a terrible white cast. Sunscreens range from conventional, chemical sunscreens, to newer mineral sunscreen brands or may even be a combination. As health-conscious and environmental shoppers, we often look for labels such as “organic”, but these are just ways to market chemical sunscreen - so make sure you know what you are looking for!
What Is the Difference Between Chemical and Mineral Sunscreen?
Why I Personally Always Recommend Mineral Sunscreen
The safety between mineral and chemical sunscreen is an ongoing debate I could write an entire article about. Here are a few key things I will point out to summarize:
A few studies have found that some chemical ingredients enter the bloodstream even after one application and can stay there for up to 3 weeks (at concerning safety levels) - which could be especially worrisome for pregnant/breastfeeding people.
There are some concerns that a few ingredients like oxybenzone and oxtinoxate behave like hormone disrupters.
A lot of these chemicals can be harmful allergens, especially to people with sensitive skin.
Here is a useful chart from the Environmental Working Group. In 2021, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the US classified only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as safe and effective based on current information.
Some points for the other side:
There definitely needs more studies and conclusive evidence.
It’s better to wear sunscreen than no sunscreen so if there is a chemical brand you LOVE, it’s better to use it than use nothing at all!
Bottom Line:
At this point in time, the current safety of chemical sunscreens in the US and Canada is questionable, so I feel safer choosing mineral sunscreens.
That being said, North America is completely behind in sunscreen products. There are way better and newer chemical sunscreens available in Europe and countries like Japan, so there might be better chemical options on the horizon!
The White Film from Mineral Sunscreens Is Just So…White!
This can get frustrating, especially if you have darker skin. Mineral sunscreen formulations sit on top of the skin, which can end up leaving a thick and white residue. It sometimes requires a lot of extra rubbing to get into the skin. This may feel different from chemical sunscreens that absorb into the skin very easily.
Tip: Choose mineral formulas that have ingredients like plant oils that help prevent a white cast or are tinted, so blend into your skin more easily.
Some Tips for Choosing a Sunscreen
Opt for a mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) because of the better safety profile.
Try avoiding sprays. There is some potential risk when titanium dioxide or zinc oxide is inhaled by humans. The Environmental Working Group has recommended against powdered products or spray sunscreens because of the risk these nanoparticles may pose to the lungs.
Look for mineral sunscreens with an SPF of at least 30 that contain zinc oxide or both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to get both UVA and UVB protection. Zinc Oxide has better UVA protection, so try to make sure that it is always in the product!
Formulations that are tinted or made using micro- or nanoparticles may result in a more cosmetically appealing product.
Brands I Like
I have brown skin and have tried many different sunscreens, especially for the face. Here are my two favourite brands that we are hoping to stock in our sunscreen aisle.
The first one: SkinCeuticals SPF 50, Tinted Broad Spectrum Face Sunscreen
I LOVE this sunscreen. It’s the one I gift to friends and family who are looking for a good sunscreen. It contains Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. It is amazingly smooth and does not leave a white cast. It is a little pricey at $59 CAD and you can buy it here.
The second one: La Roche-Posay SPF 50, Tinted
This one is my back-up. It only contains Titanium Dioxide so the UVA protection is not as good. Even though it’s marketed as broad spectrum, Zinc Oxide has better UVA protection compared to Titanium Dioxide alone. The protection isn’t as good but it’s better than nothing. It goes on smoothly and doesn’t leave a white cast. It has a lower price point at $39 CAD and you can buy it here.
Do You Wish a Pharmacy Carried Your Sunscreen?
If you love your sunscreen brand, please share in the comments! We are always on the hunt for awesome sunscreen, and we want The Health Aisle to carry only the best products.
Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions, thoughts about the article or awesome mineral sunscreen recommendations.
If you happen to buy any of these products listed above, I would LOVE to hear what you think!
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Thanks Aliya...This is super interesting. We live in Paarl, South Africa and the sun exposure here is pretty brutal. Sunscreen has a been a big topic of discussion in our home of late. I never even knew there was "chemical vs mineral" sunscreen.